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Re: from fretted to fretless


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Posted by Deman on February 22, 2001 at 17:40:05:

In Reply to: from fretted to fretless posted by Taylor on February 21, 2001 at 23:09:00:

: Ok guys I have a question. This is somthing that Ive been contemplating for a long time and I dont know what I should do. I play alot of slap bass stuff but Ive always want ed a fretless bass as well. I have a regular bass that im playing on but Im really tempted to pull the frets out and make it a fretless bass. Would this really be a good idea? Thanx.

: Taylor

Hey. I did exactly what you are talking about...took my cheap P-bass copy, pulled out the frets, filled em with PC-7, and away I went. I did a search on dogpile.com first, found a site that had the basics of doing it...but I lost that site in a re-format of my HD since then. Anyway, I'm really happy with my results. I put fender tapewounds on cause I didn't want to chew my board (and they were laying around) but since have gone to round wounds and did't get much damge. working on getting some Thomastik jazz flats right now. All I used was a flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers, got very very minor chipping on a couple frtes, no big deal. Then I sanded down my fretboard (I did it by hand, which worked well enough, but you really should use a peice of wood or foam cut to your fretboard's radius). I took some PC-7 (available at hardware stores everywhere) and filled in the fret holes sloppily. This stuff works really well...it fries to the consistency of wood/clay, is a dark grey in color (i can see fretlines, but not too obvious to others) and sands really well. let it dry overnight, and then sand off the excess in the morning. I didn't do anything to my fretboard with epoxy coatings, though i'm still considering it. If you want a brighter, slappable tone, do this. all it takes is clear laquer epoxy, put on a layer, sand the layer when dry, and do the same a few more times. I only have one problem area, which i know what I need to do to fix, just waiting till i change strings (have to sand down a little hump). The only thing to watch for is that your bridge can be adjusted low enough to get the strings on that low action again. Mine was very close, but I re-seated the neck and fixed it. The nice thning is that there is no real buzz...you just adjust your action until the buzz is where you like it. Intonation is kinda hard, but with the old lines, you can just look as you learn. All together this caost me nothing to do, but id\f you bought PC-7 and Epoxy for the fret board and sanding paper, you are looking at like 20-30 bucks. Not bad for two days and a flat head screwdriver! Email me if you have any more questions.
Deman


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