Thanks for all the help

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Posted by Rich Laird on January 17, 2001 at 09:05:33:

In Reply to: Re: Speaker Dilemma posted by Deman on January 16, 2001 at 21:14:37:

Just wanted to say "thanks" to all you guys. This really helps me out - i knew I could count on ya'.

Mickster definitely made a good point. I need to try some cabs out with my equipment and see what seems to work the best. With the info. you guys have shared - I'm in a much better position to do that.

I guess the big thing I learned is that - if I don't want to blow my speakers, then I need to make sure I'm not cranking the amp to the point of distortion. If I need more sound, then it's time to get a bigger rig...and keep it clean, right?

: I'm going to try and answer everything you asked in order with you rpost:

: : I always thought that if an amp is rated 100watts RMS, then you probably want speakers rated for about 200 watts. But I checked out a 200 watt cabinet (2x10 with a tweeter) at a music store the other day and plugged a 50 watt Fender Bassman into it to see what it sounded like. Am I crazy? The sound was breaking up on low Es, even with the amp set at about half volume. So now, I’m beginning to think that I really need to get something rated for like 300-400 watts. Would that be a reasonable match for my 100 watt amp?

: >>>>>>>Actually, the reason it sounded so bad was because it was so small. As Mickster said, an amp needs headroom. That little 50 had very little at a high volume (yes, half is high), so it sounded like it was breaking up. These days, most cabs are rated at RMS, or RMS and Peak. RMS is the amount of power you can continually run into a speaker(cab) and not hurt it. Peak is exactly that...the amount of power a speaker(cab) can handle in a short burst. If a cab is rated 100 watts, it can handle 100 watts...don't be afraid to go to full power ratings, or even above (often a 400 watt head can use a 300 watt cab safley, as it rarely ever puts out the full 400, or even 300) The less power they are rated for usually gives you a higher sensitivity (read: louder). that means you shoulkd try to get more of a 100 watt RMS rated cab.

: : If that’s true, then what I need is probably a 4x10 – maybe with a horn or tweeter in it – those usually seem to be rated about 300-400. That’s sort of what I was thinking in the first place…maybe it comes down to going with your instincts and what actually sounds good and forgetting about watts, and RMS ratings and all that. Any thoughts?
: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>you could do that, but a smaller, lower rated cab would be more effective for your application

: : Also, it says “4 ohms” on my amp. Does that mean that I absolutely have to get a 4 ohm cab? Would an 8 ohm cab also work? Is there any advantage of one over the other? Low-impedance usually means lower noise…does any of this ohm crap really matter?
: >>>>>>>>>>>>>An 8 ohm would also work, but be less effective. The "4 ohms" means that your amp can handle 4 ohms minimum resistance. That means you can plug in one 4 ohm cab, or two 8 ohm cabs (8=8+4...odd but true) The advantage of a 4 ohm total load (1 or 2 cabs) is that you wll get more power out of your amp. The resistance rating is exactly that. It tells how hard an amp has to work to push a certain amount of power through the load (speaker). If the load is less, the amp doesn't have to work as hard, effectivley giving you more power. Yes it matters.

: : One more thing while I’m indulging in this over-neurosis (I always get this way when spending money is involved): It also says on the back of my amp that “outputs are parallelized”. There’s two speaker outputs….does that mean that if I plugged each one into a separate cabinet that I would be getting 200 watts? Is that why the amp says “Century 200” on it?

: >>>>>>>>That means that the outputs are exatly the same (one signal split). i'm not sure how much power you would be getting (check specs in papers on net), but it would be more than just going to

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